Una bella chiacchierata, in inglese, tra due grandi campioni dell’arrampicata: Adam Ondra e Stefano Ghisolfi.
«It was a bit weird to talk to Stefano in English, our conversation is usually in Italian. We went back in time marvelling about how we first met and started to attend international competitions. We were actually both born in February 1993, so we were joking that because I am two weeks older I have the advantage of extra training. What do you think is the hardest route Stefano managed to campus (climb without using feet)?
What is the hardest route I could climb blindfolded? We agreed we both share this urge to compete and to tackle the challenge of climbing in front of a crowd. I enjoyed hearing Stefano’s stories, for example, one of his first days on the rock in Tetto di Sarre, Aosta valley. He thought he would go for a 7a and fell a few moves from the anchor. Later he found out that the 7a was just an intermediate anchor and all the way to the top it was 8a+.
So he almost onsighted 8a+. The talk is packed, we went through so many topics. We chatted deeply about the satisfaction of climbing a route we bolted ourselves and then even bigger satisfaction when someone repeats the routes, our love for Arco (Stefano and I, we are both Garda Trentino ambassadors), bolting and climbing Change in Flatanger, future plans and more. Join us, we will be happy.
Così e come descrive Adam Ondra la sua chiacchierata con Stefano Ghisolfi.
Godetevi il video integrale del talk su Youtube!
Adam Ondra meets Stefano Ghisolfi Timecodes:
01:28 First meeting with Stefano; youth competitions
05:10 How Stefano started to climb; urge to attend competitions
08:37 Stefano’s first try to send a route on a rock in Aosta Valley
10:27 Campusing routes – as a bet for a pizza and because of a knee injury
12:26 Adam climbing blindfolded
13:58 Attending first World Cups and climbing competitions
19:38 Competitions as a form of training helping to improve rock climbing
20:32 Stefano as the first one to sent 9b Lapsus in Andonno and Adam’s repetition
23:42 Hardest climbing route in Arco, Italy – Eremo di San Paolo; first Stefano’s bolted route
26:07 Stefano’s move to Arco with Sara; Adam’s first time in Arco; love for Arco
28:33 First visits of Rock Master wall in Arco
31:13 Stefano establishing hard routes in Arco; bolting and repeating routes; Erebor, Bus de la Stria in Arco
35:14 King’s line project; kneebaring
38:01 Bolting and climbing Change
46:08 Flatanger – climbing projects to return to
48:49 Stefano’s perfect gloves; climbing with gloves
51:31 Outro Italiano»